Camino Musings

There are virtually no cats in Central/Eastern Europe….at least no feral cats. In Italy and especially Greece, you can’t walk ten feet (three meters) without encountering a feral (or pet) feline. They sun themselves on terraces, slink amongst ancient ruins, slither up to you while you are dining at an outdoor café hoping for a handout, snooze in the shade of shrubbery. But not in the Czech Republic, Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Slovenia, Croatia or Austria! During the three weeks we traveled, I can count on one hand the total number of cats I spotted – three kittens at the Hotel Plitvice in Croatia and two adult kitties in Slovenia – a tortoise shell cat in Radovljica, and a weird hairless creature in Lake Bled. Maybe it’s the climate (too cold?), or the food (Mediterranean mice are tastier?), or the willingness of the human population to contribute to the kitty food supply (we witnessed many instances of elderly Greek women leaving a feast of kibble and leftovers on their doorsteps).

Why does a suitcase shrink as the vacation progresses? Or is it that dirty laundry is bigger/heavier than clean clothing?

The voltage converter (not plug adapter) is not necessary for a cell phone, iPad, Fitbit, battery charger or electric shaver. And the plug adapter for most of Europe is the two prong pin type. Then why do I continue to pack the bulky voltage converter apparatus with plug adapters for each of the seven continents?

When beer is cheaper than water (in Czech Republic, Poland), you end up drinking a hell of a lot of beer.

If your flight gets delayed for 15 minutes, then 30, then one hour, then two hours, the airline is easing you into the fact that they will cancel the flight. For an unspecified reason. Just because, I guess.

Public transportation is amazing in Europe. Trams, buses, subways negate the need for a personal vehicle (other than possibly a bicycle). And tickets are inexpensive and the subway tunnel walls are not covered in graffiti. And there isn’t very much graffiti in this part of Europe, anyway.

In the countries of the prior Communist bloc, no one checks (or it is rarely checked) to see if you actually have a ticket to ride on public transportation. On numerous tram and metro trips, we had tickets checked twice – both times in Budapest.

Despite the supposed love for Speedos by European men, at the public baths in Budapest, regular swim trunks were in mode. We saw only one Speedo, of course on an older gentleman, but the Speedo was hidden by the abdominal paunch, so he might have been naked for all we know! And Europeans are not so obsessed with body image at the baths or the pool or beach. There’s cellulite galore!

This blog has been fairly apolitical but since it is MY blog and I DO have some opinions, here goes! If you don’t agree, you can humor me or skip the next paragraph. But this is not a political discussion forum, so I am not engaging in any dialogue (i.e. Bots can stay away ’cause I ain’t taking the bait!).

In conversing with Europeans, when they discover that you are American, they will “feel you out” as to your political leanings. Trump supporters beware – he is not respected by most of the Europeans, at least the ones to which we spoke. Actually, he is considered to be a joke, albeit a quite dangerous one. His face was plastered all over the television news- the immigrant situation, separating children from parents at the border, the tariffs he put into effect on EU products- and the similarities between his agenda (nationalism, isolationism, suppression of the free press, “false news”) and his “tactics” are eerily similar to those used by Adolf Hitler and the Nazis during the 1930s. We witnessed the results of the fascist ideology at Auschwitz and Birkenau and in the Jewish ghettos of this part of Europe. We must be aware of our history, we must be educated ( considered as “elitist” to Trump), and we must be vigilant to not repeat the mistakes of the past.

All of the countries we visited still bear the emotional scars of World War II, fascism, and decades of Russian occupation. Although most of the physical damage caused by gunfire and bombing has been repaired and restored, the psyche needs longer to rebound from Communist oppression. Rumblings of rebellion against the occupiers started in 1956 in Hungary and in 1989 in Czechoslovakia, but it was not until the Velvet Revolution of 1989 and the immediate years following that the countries behind the Iron Curtain gained their independence from the USSR. Most of the Soviet statues have been relinquished to “memorial parks”, but many of the stark and austere Communist buildings remain as a reminder of a bygone era. Many of the people to whom we spoke recounted how their parents and grandparents were (and are still) affected by decades of fear and suspicion, living “schizophrenic” lives, voicing official party doctrine in public but real opinions at home. And the next door neighbor could turn you in to the authorities, if you weren’t careful! Although basic needs were provided. smuggling goods into the country was commonplace as luxury items ( like blue jeans and leather jackets and toilet paper) were not available.

Okay, now back to the frivolous content.

Australians can talk really loudly! Their exuberance manifests quite often in restaurants, with the other patrons “eavesdropping” on their conversations (but you’d have to be totally deaf not to do so!).

Asian tourists tend to travel in large groups, have selfie sticks permanently adhered to hands, and really like to shop (especially at high end designer stores).

American tourists can also be loud (though commonly not as loud as Australians), they consistently complain that they can’t get “good coffee”, and are not quite as addicted to selfie sticks.

Canadians are really polite🇨🇦. (Sorry, I couldn’t think of anything derogatory!)

Okay, now that I have insulted everyone except for Canadians (who aren’t too keen on Trump, either), I’ll continue on.

Fancy pastries always look better than they taste. The famous Sacher torte in Vienna, a must try according to guide books, is just a slightly dry piece of faintly chocolate tasting cake with a layer of apricot jam, covered in a glaze of dark chocolate. It’s the same for all those other froufrou desserts – meh!Except for the strudels- apple, cherry, poppy seed, cheese- all delicious!

Hungarian goulash in Hungary is not the goulash we think of in the States. It is a savory beef -based broth with chunks of potatoes and beef, flavored with paprika. It is not a beef stew over egg noodles! Also, goulash is different in the Czech Republic- it’s more like a meat with gravy instead of broth, but still no noodles.

There are only two types of Hungarian paprika- sweet and hot – so forget about that smoked paprika stuff – if it’s smoked, it isn’t Hungarian.

It’s virtually impossible to be a vegetarian in this part of Europe – and a vegan, forget it! The cuisine is centered on meat, predominantly pork. Sausages of all shapes and sizes, cured or smoked, served with mustard, shaved fresh horseradish, and/or pickled cabbage (AKA sauerkraut), on a roll or naked on a platter are ubiquitous. Pork cutlets, roasted pork, and pork ribs are also joined by variations of cooked beef- braised, boiled, pounded thin and fried as a cutlet (Wiener schnitzel)- all served with potatoes (boiled, fried or as potato salad) and usually cabbage. Forget that low carb diet! When vegetables are listed as the accompaniment, it is frequently puréed into a gravy in which the meat will swim laps! Roasted duck is popular in Poland and the Czech Republic, also served with potatoes and cabbage. A Czech “dumpling” is not what we Americans consider a dumpling (a boiled doughy matzoh ball or gnocchi) but more like a boiled bread. It is made with flour, water, and yeast and is boiled in water or broth and it truly looks like boiled bread! A carrot or parsnip may rear its ugly head but there ain’t a drop of chlorophyll on that plate – nothing green for miles! A salad is composed of pickled cucumbers and cabbage with some kernels of corn thrown into a picking brine with perhaps a thin slice of tomato. Dairy products, like cheeses and yogurt, are also a significant part of the diet. Mushrooms, although a fungus, could be considered as a vegetable and are quite popular in Polish cuisine. But mushrooms aren’t green and they don’t have much fiber! Metamucil or laxatives must be big sellers! (Eastern Europeans tend not to be lactose intolerant, thank goodness!)

So, the food is brown or beige or variations thereof, in a nutshell (which would fit into the cuisine quite well as it is also brown).

But enough with the joking….the food is quite delicious, albeit heavy. It does “stick to your ribs” and hangs around the colon a bit longer than it should. The cuisine is a reflection of the climate (not conducive to warm weather veggies), the economic and political history ( basic, inexpensive, based on the agrarian lifestyle) and the need for calorie-rich nourishment. Unfortunately, tourists don’t expend a lot of calories, walking around looking at historical monuments instead of working out in the fields. So, the weight lost from all the dieting and exercise before going on vacation has been negated. Back to the gym tomorrow!

We had a great trip. But as Dorothy, in “The Wizard of Oz”, so astutely noted, “There’s no place like home.”

Well, we’ve been out of the country for almost three weeks. Seven countries (eight, of you count the unplanned overnight at a Paris airport hotel), seven languages, five different currencies, five major cities, a National Park, mountains, the Adriatic seacoast, cool days and sweltering days, rain, thunderstorms, mist and blazing sun – all in 19 days – it’s been a whirlwind trip. We spent 13 days with 24 wonderful, personable and generous individuals, ranging in age from 19 to 80ish, and shared great times and many laughs. We had a great leader, Katerina Svobodova, from Prague, who acted as guide, advisor, teacher, and friend. At times, we proceeded at an exhausting pace, but it was a blast! And we made some wonderful friends to top it off!

So now we are winding down. The planned activity for today, our last in Europe for this vacation, was a food tour. I’m a huge fan of these and have participated in this activity in many cities – Rome, Florence, Paris, Madrid, as well as Boston, NYC, Seattle and Chicago. I can now add Vienna to the list. Not surprisingly, this tour was very meat oriented. On Central and Eastern Europe, the main focus of the meal is meat, usually pork, with potatoes and cabbage as the accompaniment. Needless to say, the main color palate of ones meal is limited to brown and tan.

We convened at Café Sperl, located just outside the Ring Straße, the main thoroughfare surrounding the old historic part of this city of 2.1 million. Because it is off the tourist trail, this café, established in 1880, maintains the classic old world ambience – a quiet place to enjoy a coffee and sweet treat, read a book or share a conversation with a friend. We had our choice of coffee,from an espresso (called a moka) to a melange (cappuccino), of even a Marie-Theresa (coffee with orange liqueur and whipped cream). Of course there was apple strudel ( with a layer of bread crumbs under the flaky crust) and the specialty of this café, a cake of chocolate meringue and marzipan.

Then it was off to the Naschmarkt, the city outdoor market (actually covered market stalls) that extends for 1/3 mile over the Wien River. Although not frequented by the locals due to the high prices and touristy bent, there are some specialty shops to which that local chefs still shop. We sampled Austrian cheeses and flavored vinegars, and then proceeded to a meat shop that specializes in using the “lesser” cuts of meat to produce a baked meat loaf- type product. Sort of like bologna on steroids, these mostly pork-based products had chili peppers or pickles of spinach added. Besides pork, there was a horse meat variation, which I was told tasted like a hot dog. (I can’t stomach the thought of eating horse meat!)

Moving to within the Ring Straße, we visited a wine cellar to sample three Austrian vintages – two white, one red) and then to the “best chocolate store” in Vienna (Xiocolat) to taste an apricot truffle. )We did not try the asparagus chocolate.) The oldest bakery in the city (Grimm) was the next stop where four different local breads were sampled ( a rye sourdough, one with fennel and cumin, a ciabatta and a 100% dark rye). The last stop was at the last remaining butcher shop in Vienna where the characteristic ham, a dried sausage, and a fried meat loaf were on the plate, along with shredded fresh horseradish. Tour over, we strolled back to the hotel for a rest before dinner. We are meeting two of our Rick Steves tour mates who are also here in Vienna. Then it’s packing time – the challenge, how to jam all the liquor and chocolate into two already full suitcases!

We took a tour of Vienna today. In a nutshell, it was mostly about dead people. The first thing was a drive along the Ring Straße – a street that surrounds the first district of Vienna (the Old Town). We crossed the Danube, relocated to the northeast of the town center to decrease the risks of flooding to the city.

There was a stop to Hundertwasser Village, created in a tire factory in 1990-1991, designed by the artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser who believed that nature was not flat with right angles. The streets are lined by rolling curves of cobblestones of varying size and the building facade is painted in many vibrant colors, with more than 200 trees and shrubs planted on terraces and roofs.

The Old City Cemetery, located in a working class neighborhood several miles from the city center was a unique site- acres and acres of elaborate monuments and grave sites. Graves of famous architects, politicians, composers, and other famous Austrians are clustered amidst the old Jewish cemetery with its simple unadorned gravestones. The graves of Beethoven, Brahms, the Strauss family of composers and conductors (Josef Strauss was also the inventor of the brush street cleaner – a man of many talents!), as well as the actress Hedy Lamar and actor Leon Askin who played General Burkholder on Hogan’s Heroes are found here.

Then it was off to the Schoenbrunn Palace, the summer home of The Hapsburgs family that ruled large parts of Europe as well as the Austrian-Hungarian empire for over a thousand years (from the 10th century until 1918). The grounds are reminiscent of Versailles ( Marie Antoinette was a Hapsburg who married Louis XVI!) with extensive formal gardens and over 1400 rooms decorated with gilted gold and adorned with family portraits.

We took the subway back to St. Stephen Platz. It was time for a little snack so a visit to the famous Café Central was in order. Started in 1876, this classic Viennese cafe with a Baroque style features elaborate desserts and coffees. It was the center of the Viennese intellectual scene, hosting Lenin, Trotsky, Tito, Freud and even Hitler when he was an art student in Vienna.

Street performers can be found in many of the squares (Platz). A talented young baritone was entertaining the tourists this afternoon.

Next was a visit to St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Completed in 1160, this Gothic and Romanesque edifice was built on the site of two prior churches. It has two Gothic style towers completed in the 16th century and is characterized by its tile covered mosaic patterned roof. It escaped damage from wars until 1945 when the roof caught fire, damaging the towers. The faithful from all parts of Austria contributed to the repairs.

Dinner tonight was typical Viennese cuisine- we went to Purstner. We had wiener Schnitzel, boiled beef, and pickled mixed green salad with cucumbers, cabbage, corn, lettuce and sweet and sour vinaigrette. Even though we were too full for dessert, we had to stop at Zanoni&Zanoni for a gelato while we were on our evening stroll. Tomorrow is the last day of our trip😢, but we’re ready to go home and see our pup and kitties again. Going back to work, on the other hand, I’m not so keen on that.

The Rick Steves Best of Eastern Europe tour (June 10-23) is officially over. After the farewell dinner last night, tour members bid each other farewell. A few were at breakfast this morning but most were either sleeping in or had already left for their next destination. We had pre-arranged private transportation to Vienna through a company called Daytrip. It provides door-to-door service. Our driver showed up promptly at 8:55a.m. A few of us had gathered in the lobby and we were chatting with Katka. We said our final farewells begrudgingly and followed him out to the parking lot (car park in European speak),

Our driver was quite a character – a Hungarian biker dude who had prior careers as a newspaper journalist and a bus driver. He looked like a quintessential motorcycle fanatic with his Mohawk-ish hair cut, Greek beer (Mythos) t-shirt, unshaven face and gruff voice. He pretty much talked nonstop for four hours, imparting his opinions on politics, Victor Orban ( the authoritarian prime minister recently re-elected for a third term in Hungary), ice hockey in Europe, the World Cup, his recent vacations to Greece, and a blow-by-blow summary of his life. The monologue was interrupted by a prescheduled visit to Stübing, an open air museum depicting Austrian life in the 18th and 19th centuries. It is the Austrian version of Colonial Williamsburg, but without the re-enactors, restaurants, and huge crowds. It was mildly entertaining but the labels and explanations were exclusively in German.

Tony even got to try on some Tyrollean hats! We arrived in Vienna at 3:30 pm, checked in to the Marriott (I used up some Marriott points) and took a quick orientation stroll. We found the main church, St. Stephen’s, and more importantly we searched out the famous ice cream parlor, Zanoni & Zanoni. Gelato – pistachio anc chestnut for me and chestnut and raisin (Malaga) for Tony- was a welcome treat and our lunch substitute. We strolled down the main pedestrian shopping street, stopped by the Opera House gift shop ( I bought a CD of “Placido Domingo sings John Denver”….really!!!), and went to an Italian restaurant for dinner at Cantinnetta La Norma, located a few blocks from our hotel and recommended it the Rick Steves guidebook. The past few days, we have eaten more Italian food than Eastern/Central European cuisine but tomorrow we have a dinner reservation at a place recommended by the hotel for typical Viennese food – schnitzel, I guess! After dinner, another stroll through the old town center brought us back to the Opera House where tonight’s opera was live streamed on a huge TV screen attached to the building’s exterior. Scores of people were seated on folding chairs enjoying the performance for free! Back at the hotel, our night cap was a couple of fancy coffee drinks (always served on a silver tray with water and a sweet treat) and a slice of apple strudel. We are doing an informal strudel tasting contest – let’s see which café wins!

Lightning was seen in the distance late last night and the rains began in the wee hours of the morning. By 8 a.m., a steady downpour had soaked the streets and the temperature had dropped about 30 degrees F. Although we were scheduled to meet at 8:30 a.m. for the ride in the pletna boat to the island, this was delayed by one hour in hopes that the rain would subside a bit. We were able to linger over our morning coffee, but rain was still falling at 9:30 and it was necessary to suit up in rain gear and pull out the umbrellas. The two reserved pletna boats were almost ready except for the several inches of rainwater on the boats’ floors. We waited on the sidewalk while the boat owners bailed out the water. After a towel wipe down, the seats were “dry”, sort of, and we boarded. Balancing passenger weight is crucial as we were instructed as to the side of the boat where we were to sit. The boat guy would do quite well as a “guess your weight” carnival worker!

Pletna boats have been around for centuries. The driver stands at the back, pulling the boat with his oars much like a gondolier. Our driver’s family has been “in the business” for 250 years! There are 23 boats on Lake Bled, with these flat bottomed boats running year round in all types of weather.

Going across the lake in a driving rain, the two people seated in the front had to use their umbrellas to try to minimize the soaking precipitation. Tony serenaded the group with the theme song of the film “Cinema Paradiso” – he’s been chomping at the bit to sing the entire trip! The “driver” backed us in to the pier. As we stepped off, we saw the famous 99 steps leading up to the church. The local legend states that a groom must prove his worth by carrying his bride up these steps to the church on their wedding data. A young couple in our group had been married here in Lake Bled five years prior and they re-enacted the trip up the steps. By the way, he made it!

The church has been a worship site for over ten centuries, although the present structure dated from the 19th century. Earthquake activity in this part of Slovenia has caused significant damage over the years! The church is also famous for the “wishing bell”. Visitors take turns tugging on the rope three times while making a wish. The altar was covered by a scaffold cloth (as was the bell tower) for restoration work. The church is Baroque with a side altar fresco depicting the circumcision of Jesus – quite unusual to see.

The rain pretty much stopped as we strolled around the church grounds, had a cappuccino, and did a little souvenir shopping in the adjacent stone building. Back on the boat after an hour, we floated back to the shore for our last free afternoon on the last day of our tour. We chose to stroll around the lake, a 3.5 mile path surrounding the shore, while others chose to climb up to the town’s castle or to ride the luge.

We met at 7 pm for the farewell dinner at Ocarina, a restaurant featuring Slovenian cuisine with some dishes having an Indian influence. A selection of hors d’oeuvres and beverages ( wine, mead) was waiting for us and a ten-year-old accordionist entertained us with traditional tunes.

Plates of antipasti, choice of lentil or tomato soup, Balkan (like a Greek) salad, choice of grilled kebabs or trout or pasta with truffles for the entree and the traditional cream cake for dessert filled us up as we conversed with our new friends. A contest of who had brought the most useless object ( the winner…a Fitbit charger with the Fitbit left at home) and personal anecdotes were shared by Katka. As the evening wound down, we reluctantly bid each other farewell as departure times varied over the next couple days. Many are planning to attend the annual Rick Steves tour alumni weekend (us included) and email addresses were shared. This group of travelers became a family and I’m certain that these new friendships will endure.

Our journey is winding down, as we leave for Lake Bled in the Julian Alps of Slovenia. We were up bright and early (again) – breakfast at 7 a.m., bags out in the building alcove before 7:45 to be loaded onto the cart to go to the ferry. The elaborate breakfast buffet was especially tantalizing this morning … for the sea gulls, especially the big guy that descended onto the table of one of our tour mates and gobbled down some scrambled eggs (almost seems cannibalistic) before being shooed away. Another incontinent gull decided to baptize another tour member, in solidarity, I guess!

We boarded the bus around 8:40 and we were off. The landscape was initially vineyards and small family farms, but as we moved north, the terrain became hilly. We stopped at the border for quite a while, because a bus full of Asian tourists preceded us and and the subsequent “speed” of the border agents on both Croatian and Slovenian sides. As a result, we were considerably behind schedule.

We are heading toward the capital of Ljubljana. The road signs are in Slovenian and Italian, as Slovenia has been part of Italy. Vineyards and olive trees cover the slopes bordering the highway. Salt flats were also scattered about. As we moved inland, the terrain became mountainous (part of the Julian Alps). Slovenia is a crossroads of many cultures – Roman (the western edge of the empire), Austro-Hungarian and Slavic. Unlike Croatia with its laid back attitude, Slovenians tend toward a more Austrian gestalt – punctual and precise. The Slovenians are also very environmentally aware – one of the “greenest” in the world. Other interesting tidbits: Slovenian wines and fruit infused liqueurs (especially blueberry) are typical products. Beekeeping is popular, with 7000 beekeepers.

We stopped at a gas station (our last one) for a quick cappuccino and, for some of us, a cookie or strudel. Back on the bus, Katka gave us her take on the immigrant situation that had come to a head in 2015. The people of Hungary and Czech Republic were portrayed in the media as being intolerant to the huge wave of immigrants arriving at their borders (up to 10,000 per day). In a nutshell, part of the problem was the lack of preparation by the governmental and border officials to deal with the influx, as well as the immigrants who did not want to stay in these countries but rather wanted to go to Germany.

We finally arrived in Ljubljana around 12:30, an hour behind schedule. We were met by Marijan, the local guide. He also is a Rick Steves tour guide (Best of Adriatic, Eastern Europe). We were given a two-hour walking tour of the city center. Ljubljana is a charming city of about 250,000, the capital of Slovenia. The town center is almost exclusively pedestrian. A river passes through the center, with several bridges traversing the banks. An earthquake in 1895 caused major destruction, with many of the buildings rebuilt and exhibiting the baroque or art nouveau style. It is not a major tourist destination, but most certainly has a vibrant feel, with a bustling public market, cafés and restaurants along the river banks and around the main squares, and an amazing variety of shopping venues. The citizens fill the streets, strolling, shopping, sipping coffee, eating gelato. Since the town center is free of cars, commuters use bicycles, and bike-dodging (or pedestrian-dodging) is commonplace. We were also treated to some local delicacies (Carnolian sausage with mustard and horseradish, fried frog legs, a fig and a blueberry liqueur, fresh unpasteurized milk from a machine dispenser, and a dessert described as “strudel on steroids”). Above are: homemade sausage place, Carnolian sausage, frog legs, Katka getting milk from a milk dispenser and typical Slovenian dessert with poppy seeds, apples, cream cheese and flaky pastry (gibanica – pronounced ” gee-bah-neet-sah”).

Then we had about an hour of free time. We chose to do a little shopping (the fig liqueur was calling to us) and to try out the artisanal gelato at Gelato Romantika. The pumpkin seed oil gelato tasted a bit like pistachio!

The temperature was surpassing 32 degrees C (over 90 degrees F), as we dragged ourselves back to where the bus was parked. We had a short drive to Radovljika, a small town with an apiary museum (Slovenia is a center of apiaries and the art of beekeeping was refined here) and a shop that has been baking decorated honey gingerbread hearts since 1766. They are usually given as gifts. Elaborately decorated, an advisory sticker states that they are not food products! However, they make great mementos or Christmas tree ornaments. One of the owners described the process of baking – flour, honey, ginger, cloves, cardamon and water are combined into a dough that “ages” for 14 days. The dough is rolled out with a machine roller and cookie cutters, some decades old, are used to shape the cookies. They are iced with a potato starch, water and food coloring frosting (no sugar) after the cookies are baked and left to air dry. He even treated us to an accordion solo after his presentation. We purchased a couple of the undecorated edible version , but I must say they did not taste anything like the gingerbread we have in the USA- they were like dry soft bread with a faint essence of ginger and cloves.

As we left this charming little village, ominous storm clouds could be seen in the distance. Rain and wind are forecasted for tonight and tomorrow morning and the high temperature tomorrow is forecasted to be about 30 degrees cooler than today!

Within 15 or 20 minutes, we reached our final destination, Lake Bled (Bled means “pale”, referring to the mist that is commonly encountered on the lake), a village at the foot of the Julian Alps. We were driven partly around the lake (the bus was not permitted to go the entire circumference) to get a preview of tomorrow’s agenda- a boat ride to an island. We disembarked from the bus, for the last time on this two-week tour, and said our farewells to Peter, our brilliant driver, who once again deftly maneuvered the bus in reverse gear up into the parking lot of the Hotel Lovec. We are free for the rest of the evening. Tonight, pizza for dinner – we are tiring of those heavy meat-centric meals!

Absolutely no scheduled events are on the agenda. We have a totally free day to enjoy the Istrian Coast of Croatia, the picturesque town of Rovinj and our island resort hotel. The Adriatic Coast is “littered” with small islands, many hosting resort hotels. The Hotel Katarina (I like to think of it as MY hotel, as my first name IS Katherine) is one such resort. Three salt water swimming pools, a beach, several restaurants, an activities program that features things like archery, salsa dancing and yoga, and beautifully landscaped gardens impart a sense of relaxation and escape from the rigors of everyday life (and of organized tours).

The morning started a bit later than usual with an unrushed lavish breakfast buffet. Made to order egg dishes, prosciutto, selection of cheeses, cured fishes, three different kinds of yogurt, pastries, and some local specialties like plum balls (slightly sweet dough containing plum jam), polenta, and cheese streudel, and a selection of different breads. We dined outside, overlooking one of the pools.

Boarding the island ferry at 9 a.m., we were in Rovinj within 10 minutes. We strolled the daily outdoor market (truffles, olive oil, and lavender products are local specialties) and peeked into the fresh fish store. All the seafood was super fresh from the fishermen’s daily catch. The town looks like a seaside village in Italy, with narrow cobblestone streets and laundry hanging between the windows. The streets were lined by cafés, souvenir shops, jewelers, clothing boutiques ( Moda Italiana), and small art galleries. There was an Andy Warhol exhibit at the small art museum. I bought a summer dress and Tony got a linen shirt to add to our summer wardrobe.

We hiked up the steep hill to the Baroque Church of Sant’Euphemia. She was martyred in the fourth century and her sarcophagus, which had been interred in Constantinople, mysteriously was found “floating” in the seas near Rovinj in the 9th century. A young man dragged it out of the water and supposedly is in the side altar. She is the patron saint of the town and Euphemia is the most commonly encountered girl’s name.

This legend is quite similar to that of Saint James (and Santiago de Compostela) with his body sailing in a stone boat to the coast of Spain, the remains buried for centuries and his remains unearthed by a peasant farmer around the same time (8th century) in northwestern Spain.

After a refreshment break

we wandered a bit more around town and took the 12:30 ferry back to the island. The refreshing waters of the pool beckoned. We spent about an hour snoozing and cooling off in the pool (the deep one where I couldn’t touch bottom). Because of an impending “salsa event” the pool was closed to guests after 3:30. We walked over to the pebbly beach to dip our toes in the Adriatic.

Tonight was a buffet dinner at the hotel and an evening cruise/happy hour. We sailed around the islands, sampled locally produced alcoholic beverages and looked for dolphins! Then tomorrow morning, we have an early start (again) to our next (and last on the Rick Steves tour) destination, Lake Bled in Slovenia. Finally we will get to use those Euros I’ve been carrying since we left Pittsburgh.

Ithaca, New York at the southern tip of Cayuga Lake in the Finger Lakes region is known for its waterfalls and gorges. Ergo the saying on those infamous green T-shirts, “Ithaca is Gorges”. Well, so is Plitvice, one of eight national parks in the interior mountainous region of Croatia.

After a restful sleep, we were up bright and early (again). Breakfast at 7, luggage on the bus at 8, a short walk to the shuttle bus stop, and we were off to the upper lake region of the park. We were starting at the upper lake entrance so we would avoid (at least for the first half of the hike) the hordes of tourists who begin the trail at the lower entrance. It was cool, a bit humid, with threatening clouds but Katka assured us that, according to her very accurate Norwegian weather website, it would not rain.

The trail follows the shores of sixteen terraced lakes, with auxiliary trails branching off the main one. Small boats are available to transport visitors across the middle lake as a short cut. The major portion traverses wooded areas with many streams and waterfalls interspersed throughout. A good part of the trail is on a boardwalk, constructed of split logs, that goes over rushing streams and wetlands. Other parts of the trail resembled the Camino de Santiago in Galicia, Spain. It brought back memories of our 135-mile pilgrimage last summer from Ponferrada to Santiago de Compostela. As promised, we encountered few tourists on the first half of the five-mile hike. The landscape was stunning – reminiscent of the gorges of the Finger Lakes but on steroids. About half way, at the large middle lake, we boarded a boat to the other side of the lake. One of our tour members got waylaid, and Katka went back to look for her as the rest of the group was instructed to continue onward to the entrance parking lot (our exit point) and to grab a quick lunch.

As soon as we got off the boat, the number of tourists grew exponentially. We were like salmon swimming upstream against the mob, assertively using our elbows to push through (I am exaggerating a bit; I’ve seen bigger crowds- like in the Sistine Chapel!) A steep set of switchbacks brought us to the entrance where we got in line at a refreshment hut – the choice was burger, cheeseburger, chicken burger, and Plitvice sausage (like a skinny kielbasa)Coke, no Pepsi (shades of Saturday Night Live!), no fries – they ran out!

We all recongregated after lunch and were back on the bus at 12:45pm for the trip to Rovinj on the Istrian coast. We drove through the mountains on a serpentine local road with switchbacks, passing a village where Croats and Serbs once lived together in harmony. One can still see the remnants of the war in the 1990s – bullet holes in the buildings. We passed through the Narik (spelling?) Alps, and as we passed over the crest, the Adriatic Sea came into view! After miles of switchbacks, Peter, our bus driver, maneuvered the bus safely down to sea level.

The rest stop was in Senj – this town was bombarded in 1943 by the Luftwaffe, killing most of the population. This is a fishing village on the Adriatic, a remnant of 15th century fortress wall still remains. We had a refreshing beer in a seaside café. Interestingly, there are Tesla charging stations in the seaside parking lot (he was a Serbian Croatian). Leaving town, we followed the coast road to Rovinj.

After the rest stop it was time for our history lesson. Tito’s real name was Josef Broz. His mother was Serbian, father Croatian. He was a Bolshevist, joined the Communist party in 1920. He had many jobs after WW1, and eventually became a professional revolutionary. He had a relationship with Russians giving him more freedom to rule Yugoslavia. He granted autonomy to the different provinces. There was a liberal travel policy, unlike in the rest of Communist Europe. He died in 1980 of gangrene.

We drove along the Adriatic coast a while before heading into the peninsula on our way to Rovinj. We arrived in town just in time for the ferry to Katarina Island, the location of our hotel. This resort hotel has two salt water pools, a private beach, beachside grill, poolside bar, full service restaurant and activities like yoga, water aerobics, archery, riflery, and salsa dancing. All of our rooms have balconies. The rooms are a bit spartan, with a double bed and a set of bunk beds ( rooms are meant for families), but we have a lovely view of the Adriatic. This is a resort town with a decidedly Italian feel. In fact at one time it was under Italian (Venetian) rule. Olive trees are prevalent and the area is known for black truffles. The ferry between the mainland and the island leaves every hour (top of the hour from the island, at half past the hour from the town, although the Italian dolce vita attitude prevails and schedules are not strictly adhered to . We met for a delicious seafood- themed dinner (appetizer with grilled zucchini, anchovies, pickled fish, a primo piatto of seafood risotto, a fish filet with truffle cream sauce and grilled veggies and lemon sorbet for dessert) at Mastaral. Our dinner companions, Chris, Angela, Becky, Ruth, Abby, JoAnn, Sarah, and Katka , and several glasses of the local white wine (Malvasia) made for a wonderful and entertaining evening. We took the 9:30 pm ferry back to the hotel. Tomorrow will be a totally free day- a vacation from our vacation- and I think that some beach/pool time is on the agenda!

After three nights in Budapest, we are back on the bus on the way to Croatia. The road out of Budapest is a major highway, with its requisite traffic backups. KFC and Burger King seem to be ubiquitous in the rest stops. The highway passes through wheat and corn fields, interrupted by the fields of blazing yellow sunflowers. Small towns are scattered along the route, the red tile roofs standing out from the verdant countryside.

We passed Balaton Lake, 45 miles long, not very far from Budapest. Although the lake is substantial in size, it is quite shallow. There are now resort hotels along the shores, whereas camping tents were the preferred type of accommodation during Communist era.

Our first rest stop was at a gas station, but it was, shall we say a bit “upscale” when compared to the American version of a service station. There was a small herb garden outside, an adult “playground” for stretching stiff muscles, a “mini-mart” with the usual, albeit Hungarian, selection of drinks, candy, and other junk food, and a mini- café with an espresso machine for coffee drinks, selection of pastries and panino- style sandwiches. Encouraged to use up our Hungarian currency, especially the coins, we went on a shopping spree, purchasing chocolate, candy bars, nuts- the stuff I never buy at gas stations at home. The cappuccinos weren’t bad. And we used up some forints in addition to the 100 forint receipt/coupon from using the WC.

En route, Katka explained aspects of culture and daily life. Czech Republic has the best maternity benefits, up to three years of leave. There is mandatory stay of three days for uncomplicated births in state operated hospitals. If the husband/partner has the lower paying job, they can stay at home. The parent receives a government subsidy of $300/month. Flexible work hours and job security are offered. State-owned preschools begin at age 3. Of course there are private schools available but they can be quite expensive. There is still a large middle class, still a remnant of the Communist era.

Medical care recently changed in Czech Republic and Hungary in that citizens had to pay for the visit to a general practitioner – a whopping $1.50! There was public outcry and there are now exemptions for children and the elderly. For fathers/partners who want to be present during childbirth, there is a charge of $20. A private room in State-operated hospitals is $20/night. Emergency visits cost $4.50. Of course, there are private clinics and hospitals, but the cost differential is not that great between private and public institutions. A knee replacement with rehab is free in public hospitals but costs $2000 in private clinics. The proviso is that you might need to wait six months to a year in a public setting. Senior citizens bear the brunt because pensions average $700/month as pensions are based on prior salaries (and under Communism salaries were quite low). There is no significant difference in quality of care between private and public sectors. Medications are partially paid by the patent. Average physician salary is $1600/month. Social security is 6.5%, 4.5% for health care and 15% for taxes. Net pay is about $1000/month, which is quite comfortable for most.

Rents can be quite high in city centers ($1000/month). Government subsidized loans with 1% interest occurred prior to the financial crisis of 2008. Renting has become more common since then. Of course, living in the city centers is prohibitive for the average citizen. The VAT is always included for every purchase, with this tax automatically added into the price. Unemployment benefits are based on age. Under age 50, one receives 65% of most recent salary, up to five months. Retirement age is generally 65 with deduction of two years per child. Homelessness is not as widespread as in the USA, especially of those with mental illness (clinics and hospitals are readily available) or drug abuse. They tend to beg for money with head’s down. The elderly tend to stay in an extended family living arrangement. We in the USA exist in very isolated and lonely lives in comparison to our European friends. Perhaps because of work obligations or personal choice, families are split, with grandparents and even siblings living hundreds or even thousands of miles apart. This lack of connection to our families- our roots- make us a very disjointed society. Interestingly, opioid addiction is not a problem in Eastern Europe. Perhaps this lack of connection to other people, the absence of a sense of community and deep loneliness makes our society more vulnerable to the dangers of drugs.

The impact of communism varied from country to country, with a much better life in Hungary than in Czech Republic and Poland. Many factors contribute to this, primarily related to the relationship of the country to Russia. The conversion to the Euro has been blocked in the countries in Eastern Europe, except for Slovenia. The next date for the possible change is the year 2020. One of the problems is related to inflation as prices tend to rise with conversion to the Euro. Like the choice relating to the use of the Euro, a country can decide to join the Schengen zone. This makes border crossing quite easy, not requiring passports to cross borders.

After a hearty lunch ( selection of meats, fried crepe and meat roll ups that look like egg rolls, pasta salads, chicken, spinach “burgers”, and a crumbly cornbread-like slightly sweet dessert, and I almost forgot….LARD!) at Restaurant Zelengaj, just over the Croatia border, nestled in a rural area off the highway. The peaceful setting was graced by a pond, some funky sculptures and lovely flower beds.

FYI, I tried a little of the lard on a slice of bread – it didn’t have much of a flavor.

There was one more rest stop in Croatia, of course, another gas station. This one wasn’t quite as elegant as the last, but it did have an ATM.

Croatia is one of the newest members of the EU, and is not yet part of the Schengen zone. There are 3600 miles of beaches and more than 1000 islands. However, we are riding through the interior of the country today, passing farms and wooded areas on the way to Plitvice National Park. The population of Croatia 4.5 million, mostly Roman Catholic. Mean GDP is $24,100. Croatia was part of the former Yugoslavia. The country has been under Venetian, Hungarian, Ottoman, and Austria-Hungary rule. The nation of Yugoslavia was formed in 1918. Communism was a different “animal” under Tito, who had a cordial relationship with the USSR. With the death of Tito, it broke up into separate countries, divided by religious and cultural backgrounds. The political tensions ignited the war in 1990. The ravages of war can still be seen (bullet holes, bombed buildings). A 21-year- old soldier was the first killed in the war, with the body found in the Plitvice National Park.

As we approach our destination, the landscape changes from farmland to forest. Waterfalls and gorges with homes straddling the river suddenly appear as we ascend up into the mountains. Views of waterfalls continued to appear along the route to the hotel.

Our home for the night is the Hotel Plitvice, built during the Communist era 1980s, but was recently renovated. It is located in the park, amid the forest. Our room is massive with a minimalist decor. And the bathroom has a bidet, the first we’ve seen on this trip. Tonight we are having a happy hour prior to dinner. The agenda for tomorrow is a hike to see the waterfalls and lakes. It will be a welcome respite from the bustling cities of the first half of the trip. Stay tuned for the photos tomorrow!

The agenda for today was a tour of Buda in the morning and a free afternoon before we head to Croatia tomorrow. Since it is Sunday and the final destination, St. Mathias Church, is closed to tourists until after mass (1 p.m.), we had the opportunity to sleep in as our scheduled meeting time with local guide, Monika, was at 10 a.m. We walked over towards the Danube to catch the #2 tram to the Chain Bridge. This bridge was originally built in the 19th century because a rich nobleman could not cross the river to attend a funeral as there were no bridges over the Danube. This one as well as all the other main bridges spanning the Danube underwent reconstruction as they were all bombed in WW2. We walked over the bridge to the funicular that climbs Castle Hill. The floral display next to the incline, in Communist era, was planted with exclusively red flowers. During the Hungarian uprising, a group of students under cover of night rearranged the design. Since no flowers were damaged, they could not be charged with vandalism. We rode up the incline to the top of the hill/mountain that overlooks the Danube and the bustling (and flat) city center of Pest.

This is the site of the Royal Palace (now converted to an art museum) and the current seat of government. Monika enlightened us about the current political situation in Hungary. Viktor Orban was recently elected to a third term as prime minister. His right wing political platform was anti- immigrant and Monika described how he “won” the vote by essentially buying the support of ethnic Hungarians living in neighboring countries. Prban is an authoritarian figure – basically acting as a dictator – and there are no term limits for his political position. The parallels of the Hungarian political situation to what is happening now in the United States is frightening.

As we walked around the area, the excavations of the medieval portion of the city were seen. As in many other European cities, Budapest has been built up on several levels over the centuries. Our final destination was St. Mathias, the 13th century church with a mixture of gothic, renaissance and art nouveau styles and a stunning tile roof. This church is also known as the Coronation Church, as this was where kings were crowned. The interior has a Moorish look and around the 15th century Ottoman invaders had transformed it into a Mosque. The interior has colorfully designed motif of the indigenous Magyars.

After a tour of the church, our afternoon was free. We took a bus down to Pest and decided to partake in a typical Hungarian experience, takin the thermal baths. There are several pools of water of varying temperatures, with bubbling jets to soothe sore muscles. It was crowded to capacity and we had to wait around 15 minutes for others to leave so we could enter . Despite reading that all the men would be wearing Speedos, I was quite disappointed to see that very few were to be seen.

We had to experience the café culture at least once before leaving. Budapest so we treated ourselves to a dessert and drink at this classic café.

Our evening was capped off by another dinner at the Sicilian trattoria and a trip to the self serve laundromat. Tomorrow we are off to Croatia.