It was nice to actually sleep in a bit as we did not have to be ready to leave until 10:45 am. Breakfast was in the dining room – a variety of crostatas and cakes as well as yogurt and sliced ham and cheese, simpler than the one served at our hotel in Naples. After breakfast, a stroll on the grounds revealed antique carts, wine presses, an Ape (3-wheeled vehicle), a swimming pool, chickens, ducks, roosters, and a couple more dogs.


The day was gorgeous, pleasantly cool, with few clouds. Kittens were scampering about and Chiara, the old dog who had served with the Italian army in Afghanistan, lumbered back to her doghouse. It was an idyllic setting for a more relaxed day than we’ve had yet on this journey.


Instead of visiting a archeological site or a picturesque village, today’s adventure was a cooking lesson at an equestrian center somewhere in rural Puglia. As the bus, pulled up into the parking lot, I was afraid that we would be going horseback riding but instead we were met by the owner who said that she had relocated her cooking lessons out to her horse farm. Tables were set up outside and two “mammas” (who didn’t look very old to me) guided us in preparing focaccia barese, taught us how to make orecchiette and a simple dessert of pastry puff dough and brown sugar. Already prepared focaccia was served to us as ours were baking, and the orecchiette with zucchini, peppers, red onion , tomato and feta sauce most definitely did not include the orecchiette that we made!
After lunch, we took a drive to the Grotte della Poesia, natural limestone caves along the sea that contain petroglyphs from the Massapians, Greeks and Romans, in Medadugno. A stone tower from the 15th century built during the times of the Ottoman Turk invasion can be seen along the shore of the Adriatic.
We stopped briefly at a small seashore town, pretty much devoid of activity except for a fruit stand, a combination bar and grocery and a few stray cats. Provisions were purchased for our evening apericena- prepared by Sarah and Susan (one of our group, who happens to be a chef/caterer). We enjoyed some salads, charcuterie, olives, melon and lots of local wine (Primitivo and Neroamaro). The big challenge was keeping the kittens and pups away from the food.
Lots of good conversation accompanied the food and wine and a sense of comaraderie is certainly developing in the group.




