After yesterday’s travel day, we decided to give the car a rest, especially since we didn’t want to lose our “primo” parking spot, and we spent the entire day here in Lecce. Although Lecce is predominantly renowned for its Baroque architecture from the 16th and 17th centuries, this city of 95,000 dates back to Ancient Greece, was conquered by the Romans in the 3rd century BC and was subsequently by the Normans in the 11th century. It was part of the Kingdom of Sicily and was one of the most important cities in southern Italy well into the 17th century.
Certainly one can see remnants of this rich and complex history in the remains of a Roman amphitheater (2nd C AD) in the Piazza D’Oronzo.
The importance and wealth of this city in the 16th and 17th centuries, however, was demonstrated by the opulence of the Baroque churches and palazzos that overwhelm the senses. There are 40 churches in the city, each covered in facades overflowing with saints, cherubs, mythical creatures and intricate patterns on the facades as well as the altars. In most cities, the Duomo is the biggest and fanciest house of worship.
But in Lecce, it is the Church of Santa Croce that woes the senses.
Construction began in 1353 but it took over 350 years the finally complete. Giuseppe Zimballo was the mastermind behind the Barocco Leccese style of these churches and the characteristic pietra leccese (a limestone that weathers to a yellow color) causes this city to have a golden yellow aura, especially at sunset.
We had lunch at Hosteria alle Bombarde ( recommended by a Russian friend I met in Salerno last year), enjoying a charcuterie platter of local specialties and a mozzarella filled with gorgonzola.
We also found a shop that sells almost any possible variety of taralli, a local crunchy snack.
We also visited the public gardens
and the castle of King Carlo V, from the 15th century (but built on the ruins of a Norman castle).
After the busy morning and late lunch, we rushed back to the apartment trying to beat out an impending storm. After a two hour pausa (siesta), we ventured out again before dinner for an aperitif. The storm which threatened all afternoon finally broke through as we were enjoying an Aperol and Campari
spritz.
After a two hour storm, we ventured out for dinner at Trattoria Nonna Tetti, an out-of-the-way local restaurant that filled up in a matter of an hour. The food was simple and delicious 
with a plate of fusilli with tomato sauce, eggplant and sausage and a local red wine.
After the rain, the temperature dropped significantly and we had our first cool evening of the trip, conducive to a good night’s sleep!
Camino Musings 