Alitalia Flight 615 departing Boston for Rome at 9:50 pm, boarding started at 8:40 with the forming of a typical Italian “line”, i.e. big mob crowding the gate entrance without any semblance of order. The gate personnel finally took control of the melee, and totally disregarding the zone system used by other airlines started boarding the seats beginning at the back of the plane. Everyone was seated, bags stashed in the overhead bins and under the seats, by scheduled departure time. Too bad we rushed because we got to enjoy sitting at the gate for another 30 minutes and then out on the tarmac for 10 more minutes.
Despite the delay, the plane had reasonable leg room in economy class and it looked pretty new – even the inflight magazine was in decent condition. Of course being served dinner at 11:30 pm was a little too late for digestive comfort. And don’t ever expect anything above the quality of a Stouffer’s Lean Cuisine in economy class!
Most all the passengers slept after our sumptuous feast of salmon or pasta served with a weird “salad” consisting of a lettuce leaf, slice of roast beef and a mayonnaise- like substance on the side. Dessert looked like a Little Debbie treat. At least the roll was fresh!
We were awakened about 5 hours later to a “breakfast” consisting of a pastry-like confection that resembled a Hot Pocket (it actually was hot!) although I couldn’t tell you what was in it as I passed on that golden opportunity. What? No espresso? Nope- just American coffee with powdered creamer! And this was on an Italian airline! I guess that a cappuccino and a cornetto (Italian version of a croissant) didn’t make it onto the menu.
Landing an hour late, we disembarked down the stairs onto the tarmac to be transported by bus to the terminal and its seemingly never-ending line though passport control. It took so long that my bag had already completed a couple of laps on the baggage carousel. Thankfully I prearranged a car transfer to the hotel. There’s something “special” about having someone waiting at the exit hold a piece of paper with your last name on it. My driver looked like an eccentric Italian artist- longish white hair and a beard. He was quite friendly and seemed to understand my attempts at conversation in Italian. However, his most amazing talent is driving a manual transmission minivan through crazy Rome traffic while holding a cell phone in one hand, shifting and steering and using both hands to “talk” the Italian way, with hand gestures. Actually I don’t think he used his hands much for steering. But we made it to the hotel which is located on a narrow cobblestone street in the historic center, near Campo dei Fiori. The Hotel Smeraldo has a great location, right across from the Forno Roscioli – they have great pizza by the slice, breads, and cookies. I can see it from my room.
The hotel lobby and entrance have undergone extensive renovations since I was last here in 2012, but the rooms still look the same.
After a quick shower and change of clothes, I foregoed (forewent?) a nap and decided to stroll around before my scheduled food tour of Trastevere. I walked to the Campo dei Fiori (the market was shutting down for the day) visited the butcher shop (Norcineria) where I purchased the infamous (previously smuggled) salami in 2012 and strolled through the Jewish Ghetto.
Of course I had to stop by the cat sanctuary in Largo Argentina to pay my respects.
My food tour was to begin soon so I strolled over to the Isola Tibertina to meet up with the group. We spent the next four hours tasting Roman specialties, dodging raindrops along our walk through this vibrant neighborhood on the other side of the Tiber River. We sampled prosciutto with melon and burrata, wine, a stewed pork dish that was reportedly a favorite of Julius Caesar
visited a wine cellar (circa 80 B.C.) located under a medieval synagogue that is now a restaurant
a biscotti shop that’s been in business for over 80 years
and sampled street food like pizza al taglio and suppli (deep fried rice balls)
porchetta and cheese
and then some pasta amatriciana and cacio e pepe.
We passed Santa Maria in Trastevere on our way for a gelato at Fatamorgana.
As the tour was ending, the skies opened up to a downpour. I foolishly had chosen to walk back to the hotel. Let’s just say that I could have used some swim flippers instead of the shoes I was wearing! Now it’s time for a well-earned rest after 36 hours of being awake. Tomorrow is my last day in Rome before I head for Salerno. Buona notte!
Camino Musings 