This is it – the last day of walking our Camino. We got up at 6:00 a.m. and we were out on the trail by 7 after grabbing a quick breakfast at the small cafe that accepted the breakfast voucher from the pensione. It was actually quite a hearty breakfast – two fried eggs with brilliant orange yolks (not like the anemic yellow yolks from American hens – these Spanish hens are truly free range), choice of bacon or cheese, a slice (or should I say slab) of toasted bread, fresh OJ and cafe con leche.
It was a cool and overcast morning (again), barely at the brink of dawn, as we entered the eucalyptus forest. This portion was fairly level although there were several considerable uphill climbs. We were pretty much alone during the initial portion of our walk.
At the first cafe, we watched as at least a dozen “day pilgrims” emerged from a van onto the Camino, crowding into this cafeteria-like building that was obviously designed to service large groups. After this point, solitude was no longer part of the wonderful Camino experience, as packs of daytrippers joined the Way.
It was obvious that the Camino follows the periphery of the Santiago airport, as jets roared over our heads. At this point, the Camino follows along the shoulder of the major highway. There was a “teaser” statue of Santiago that brought us false hope that we wouldn’t have too much farther to go.
The Camino then veered off along a less traveled road toward Lavacolla. We stopped at a cafe to rest and received a sello for our credencial at the small church of San Vincenzo. There were significant uphill climbs up to Lavacolla (where according to legend pilgrims washed themselves before entering Santiago – it translates to “wash private areas”). We took our last break at Villamaior, where we spoke with an older gentleman from the D.C. area who had started from St. Jean. Then the Camino transitioned into a long boring detour through an ugly industrial area, following along the shoulder of the road. This persisted for several miles, with a gradual uphill grade, until we reached Monte de Gozo (Mount of Joy), where pilgrims used to be able to get their first glimpse of the cathedral of Santiago. Alas, no more, as development of urban blight now obscures the old city until you are almost stumbling upon it! There is a rather undistinguished concrete monument (erected in 1993, I believe, when John Paul II visited) at the top.
Although the serenity of the Camino was lost, at least the final several miles were downhill. We entered what we thought was Santiago, passing over a rickety and long wooden bridge and passing a makeshift shrine, into what was actually an interminably long walk through the suburbs. 
There were virtually no businesses open as it was Sunday ( and therefore nowhere to stop for a break) and the familiar yellow arrows and directional milestones on which we depended for so many miles disappeared. These were replaced by small metallic plaques intermittently embedded into the sidewalk. The map provided to us was woefully inadequate and we had absolutely no idea how far we were from the cathedral. As we had not stopped for a break in over 10 km, we found a bar frequented only by locals where we had a beer and a potty break. We had to share our tiny sidewalk table with a large black scary- looking dog whose owner was at the next table. We were determined to beat out the predicted rain, so we gathered up our gear and trudged onward, not exactly certain that we were headed in the right direction. After a few minutes who should come up behind us, but Brian and Matthew. We were just meters away from the historic center. We were transported back in time with every subsequent step. The strains of bagpipe music could be heard as we approached the portal through which the Camino Francés enters the main square. It’s difficult to describe the maelstrom of emotions – joy, relief, sadness – that hit you all at once when you emerge through the portal and realize that you have joined the confraternity of millions of pilgrims that have preceded you! If was also special because we were able to share this experience with our new friends/Camino family, Brian and Matthew.
We decided to head to our hotel to shower and rest prior to obtaining our Compostela from the pilgrim’s office. We stopped at the tourist information office to get a better map and directions to the hotel. The Hotel Virxe da Cerca is at the edge of the historic center. It is built into a hill and has several levels, with a charming garden area and lovely common spaces.
Cleaned and rested, we joined the queue for our Compostela, completed credencial in hand, feeling the exhilaration of accomplishing our goal.
Familiar faces, even if we didn’t know their names, from our time on the Camino were around us. It was a truly joyful and uplifting experience.
We then attended the 7:30 pm pilgrim’s mass. It was a moving experience, and difficult to put into words. To see so many people from different parts of the world gathered together in peace and love gives some hope that humankind may be able to overcome our differences.
After mass, we wanted to treat ourselves to a good meal, not the standard pilgrim’s menu we’ve been consuming for 10 days. Seafood was what we were craving!
We had a great waiter (from Paraguay), great company (Brian and Matthew) and a great meal. What an end to an incredible day!
Lesson of the day: This isn’t the end; it’s the beginning.
Camino Musings 