This was going to be a long day of walking so we were up bright and early and at breakfast by 7am. On the Camino by 7:15, we followed a group of teens who appeared to be part of a religious group as we were leaving Portomarin. The village was moved to its present site in the mid 1960s after the original town was submerged under water after the Mino River was dammed (see last post). We walked past the church that was carefully reconstructed on its new site at the center of town after each original stone was meticulously numbered. Portomarin is unlike any of the other places we’ve seen in Galicia because every building is relatively new, except for the entirely reconstructed church.
In addition to the piles of stones placed on the Camino mile markers, we have begun to see more and more makeshift shrines, usually in some form of a cross, along the Way. These symbols of faith stir the soul. It truly embodies the reason for embarking upon this journey.
The first part of our Camino today was a continuous 8 km uphill climb through wooded areas and cornfields. The misty and cool weather was pleasant at first, but the difficulty of the ascent resulted in a ridiculous amount of physical exertion, and perspiration soaked our supposedly moisture wicking clothing. Two hours of huffing and puffing our way up to the crest passed before we were able to take our first refreshment and relaxation break. As this café was the first one on this stage of the Camino, it was overrun by pilgrims, getting their first jolt of caffeine from a café con leche. We nabbed one of the few free tables and purchased a couple of OJs and a pretty pathetic cellophane wrapped Spanish version of pan au chocolat. Drenched in perspiration, the cool temperature made it quite uncomfortable, but we had many more kilometers to walk.
After a short respite and a bathroom break ( and getting a stamp for our credencials), we rejoined the groups of pilgrims on the Camino. We met up with Patrick again. He is still diligently working his way along the Camino. As is his routine of late, he walks until he can go no further and then grabs a taxi to the next town.
After many kilometers of ascent, the Camino finally emerged onto a meadow of wildflowers. And the sun finally burned through the mist. It brought back memories of Julie Andrews in the opening moments of “Sound of Music” . If was truly a glorious sight to behold, after so many hours clogging up through the fog.
We had another long ascent before we took a lunch break of Gallegan cheese and tomato bocadillo, potato chips and two large cervezas. Since we are slow pokes compared to the other pilgrims, we were out of synch with the waves of pilgrims, so we had the place to ourselves.
Subsequently, the little hamlets appeared at frequencies of 2 to 3 km. They were quite similar – a few stone buildings, barns, cows and dogs ( mostly of the German Shepherd variety). We frequently saw horreos, cement structures for grain storage built off the ground to prevent rodent infestation.
In the little town of Ventas de Naron, we passed a tiny 12th century church in which a blind hermit was stamping credencials. He was so loving, speaking to us in a Spanish and Italian hybrid language, shaking our hands and wishing us a “buen Camino”. We have seen many similar churches in the past 150 km of the Camino, but this was one of the few that one could enter. Outside the church, there was a cruceiro, a cement cross with the Pieta represented on one side and the Crucificion on the other.
The Camino progressed over a highway bridge, onto areas that traversed cornfields, entered forests of oak trees and paralleled the highway. Instead of dodging cyclists, today we focused on dodging Spanish drivers who seem to like to see how close they can get to pilgrims without actually hitting one!
Menacing clouds overtook the skies that were so recently gloriously blue, and thunder could be heard in the distance. We picked up our previously snail-like pace, hoping to avoid getting caught in a downpour. Alas, we were not so lucky and we had to scramble to don our ridiculously expensive “high tech” ponchos that were purchased at REI. Tony almost strangled himself with the camera strap as he tried to figure out how to get the poncho over his head and his backpack at the same time. Luckily, there was a café within a couple hundred meters and we were able to avoid the deluge that quickly ensued. While waiting out the storm, we spoke with a woman from California who was suffering from a really bad case of shin splints. She had started her Camino in Burgos, about 300 km earlier and was quite concerned that she would be unable to finish these last 60 km. We have heard similar stories, of injuries that prevented pilgrims from reaching Santiago on foot. We hope she is able to continue on!
The last couple of kilometers have consistently been the most difficult. Exhaustion, both mental and physical, seems to set in after about 10 miles (16 km). Sometimes it is the thought of a cool(or warm) shower and a comfortable bed that keeps you going toward your goal. That certainly was the case today. We were wet and the blisters on my feet didn’t appreciate my damp socks. The sight of Palas de Rei appearing in the distance was a huge relief. We hobbled into this lovely and lively town filled with albergues, small hotels, and restaurants. The church of St Timos was even open and a volunteer was stamping credencials.
After a shower, change into clean clothes and a quick check of emails (yay, we have WiFi), we did our laundry in the albergue across the street. While waiting for the wash cycle to finish, it was time to relax and enjoy a large cerveza in the bar of our pensione. Tapas were served to us as we chatted with Diana from Australia and Betsy and Charlie from South Carolina. Then it was off to dinner ( a pilgrim’s menu at 9.5 euros for three courses including wine). Tomorrow will be an early start again as there is more rain predicted.
Lesson of the day: Having a simple goal every day makes it easier to get through the challenges.
Camino Musings 