This should be like a stroll in the park, only 10.6 miles, right? Well, we are in the midst of a heat wave and today Galicia bore absolutely no resemblance to Ireland weather-wise! We left Triacastela at 7:45 am, a bit later than we would have preferred, but the miles and last night’s shall we say uncomfortable bed took their tolls. It was like sleeping in a marshmallow valley, kept rolling to the depressed center of the bed!
Well, by the time we reached the end of the main thoroughfare (if you dared call it that) we were drenched in perspiration. So much for Underarmour heat gear! We had to make a choice, the high road (about 7 km shorter but with a considerable climb, or the low road which passed the Benedictine monastery in Samos, originally built in the sixth century but recently rebuilt a few centuries ago following a devastating fire, but with the Camino following a dangerous highway). We chose distance (at least as the crow flies) over history.
The heat of the day certainly manifested quickly as we made our ascent. We saw our first slug dragging itself across the Camino. In the first hamlet (too small for a village as it consisted of a farmhouse and barn-like complex, we were treated to a duet of dueling roosters. There are no places to stop for a coffee or a cerveza for over 7 miles, so we had to gird our loins and stay hydrated with mere water! After reaching a fountain with a scallop shell (painted garishly green and white- photo op!), we continued up the forested trail. We passed through San Xil, for which the Camino alternative is designated (Camino via San Xil). It consisted of a few small homes and a small cemetery. At this point we were on an asphalt paved road. A lot more pilgrims are on the Camino now as we approach Sarria, approximately 100 km from Santiago (you need to walk at least 100 km to receive the Compostela ( more on that later). Most of them missed the turnoff into the woods and continued on down the road. We took the Camino “shortcut” down steeply graded stoney pathway under the cover of trees. We crossed a narrow stone foot bridge over a small stream and then joined the wayward pilgrims who chose highway over nature.
We finally saw our first bar – Casa do Franco – Franco was born in Galicia but I suspect it wasn’t in this house. We shared our bocadillos with the local farm dog, who by the way only will eat cheese and ham and bypassed the bread – must be on a low carb diet!
We trudged along the road paralleling farmland for several more km after one more stop for large cervezas for rehydration, reaching Sarria around 2:30 pm. It’s a decent sized city, around 16,000, and we are staying in a decently sized modern hotel with great wifi (Alfonso IX). After shower and rest time, we took a taxi for Samos. It was too late for a guided tour of the monastery but we did attend evening vespers (with Gregorian chants) and pilgrim’s mass. Our taxi driver returned us to the hotel around 8:30 pm and we strolled the river promenade, deciding on a dinner of pizza and caprese salad with a cerveza and two diet cokes for each of us.
Lesson of the day: Slow and steady (like a slug) and listen to your body (and keep hydrated.)
Camino Musings 