We are in Ponferrada, the day before we start walking the Camino. It was a cold, miserable day with on and off rain. The temperature was in the 50s, much colder than last week when the temperatures were reportedly close to 100 degrees here. After breakfast, we decided to take a taxi to Cruz de Ferro, some 35 kilometers before Ponferrada on the Camino. This is the highest point on the Camino, marked by a tall wooden pole topped by a metal cross. This is the place where pilgrims leave an object, usually a rock but sometimes a note or a personal item, that represents the burdens and struggles in their lives. It was quite an emotional experience, especially seeing the symbols of people’s pain and suffering. The location is breathtaking, high in the mountainous area of northwestern Spain. There was no one there when we arrived, which made it more special.
The drive there and back was hair raising, hairpin turns on a narrow road hugging the edge of a steep embankment – reminiscent of the Amalfi Coast Drive. The road went through several tiny villages composed of several small homes and possibly a café- at points the small Spanish taxi barely fit through the narrow roadway. The views were stunning. It was at times misty and quite windy. We paralleled the Camino at many points, and we could see them trudging along the dirt and stone trail, pushing against the cold wind. Many pilgrims choose to walk along the side of the road instead – easier on the legs but quite treacherous in view of the narrow winding road with limited sight lines.
Upon our return to Ponferrada, we strolled around the historic center and toured the Templar’s castle (11th to 12th century). There were preparations for an evening festivity on the castle grounds as this week there is a festival for the induction of new Knights. We also visited the Basilica de la Virgen de Encina, which was also in the historic center. The silver altar was stunning and a peaceful calm enveloped the place.
The modern part of the city across the Sil River had a large business district, pretty much closed for siesta. We stopped in a small supermarket to pick up some water and dried fruits and nuts for tomorrow’s walk, as we are starting our Camino.
We received our credencial and scallop shell, so we are officially pilgrims. We had dinner with a group of people with whom we are sharing accommodations. Dinner was at a lovely restaurant, with local specialties – a cured beef, salad with wild mushrooms, fried red peppers with olive oil and a local soft cheese, a dried cod, eggplant and zucchini layered first course, and an incredible beef steak that was seated and you could cook to desired doneness on a hot stone. A tiramisu type dessert and lots of local vino tinto made this dinner extra special, and probably the best – or at least the fanciest – meal we will be having over the next ten days. We start tomorrow morning around 8 a.m. Our goal is Villafranca Del Bierzo, about 14 miles away.
Camino Musings 